Boston Globe Review: Fancy That tearoom

Shirley Goh/Globe Staff

Have you ever had afternoon tea?  It's one of my most favorite ways to pass the time.  I love the carefully brewed tea, the leisurely pace, the beautiful china.  And of course, the finger sandwiches, scones, and miniature sweets.

Fancy That, a Walpole vintage rental shop, just opened its tearoom in May.  Read my verdict in today's Globe South in The Boston Globe: http://b.globe.com/175PueM

Chocolate Hazelnut Melting Moments

As promised from last time, here are the Chocolate Hazelnut Melting Moments.  Chocolate-hazelnut cookies sandwich a creamy chocolate-hazelnut filling.  I'm not sure how these are hazelnut variations of Melting Moments, which I made previously.  The recipes aren't similar, and this hazelnut recipe lacks the cornstarch or Bird's custard powder that you often see in Melting Moments recipes.  The taste and consistency are different, though wonderful in their own way.  They're chocolate and hazelnut, so how could they not be?  They just deserve their own name.

The dough can be a little fussy to work with.  Once the dough starts to get melty and tear, and the rounds don't hold their shape when handled, toss the remaining dough into the freezer, parchment sheets and all, to firm up before cutting again.  It's a little labor intensive, but they are well worth it.

Melting Moments tea cookies

Melting Moments: The name is corny, but the sandwiched cookie is divine.  When my friend Bryanna was clearing her apartment for her big move to New York, she offered me a book of afternoon tea recipes.  Everything looked good, but the Melting Moments caught my attention immediately.  They're crisp yet light-textured cookies filled with buttercream.  I had made them months ago with another recipe, which used Bird's custard powder and added jam on top of the buttercream.  I like this recipe better, which uses cornstarch and vanilla instead so there wasn't the subtle chalky taste or texture I got from the Bird's.  I made some other minor tweaks and added the jam to this version also. Trust me, jam plus buttercream induces satisfied groans.  Thanks, Bry!  Maybe I'll make these next time you're in town.

Also, if you're a fan of chocolate and hazelnut together, check back here in a few days for the Hazelnut Melting Moments I also made from this book!

I'm catching up on following all your posts.  It's been a busy summer, especially with the visit of family.  I had fun grilling and chilling with my dad, even if we disagree on how long it takes to cook meat on the grill and how harmful char is.  It's all good -- by a certain age and with living in different states, you overlook the little stuff and enjoy your time together.  And Sis and I had been waiting all summer for a beach outing together.  She brought her little one, who would run around yelling, "Auntie, where arrre yoou?  A-yi, where arrre yoou?"  In these pictures Audrey is hanging with Grandpa, her best friend.  In the one on the left, she's using one of her favorite expressions, "Wooo-ooow!" while she watches the waves.

And my garden has been rewarding me with tomatoes!  There's loads of these little Sun Sugar tomatoes, some big heirloom Brandywine tomatoes, cherry peppers, and the occasional strawberry.  On the right is a sauce I made from the yellow tomatoes, and a salsa behind it from the Brandywines and cherry peppers.  I've been hitting up the farmers market for blueberries, summer squash, and fragrant peaches with the fuzz still on them.  I'm trying, as usual, to milk every moment out of summer before it gets too cold for my favorite produce, beaches, and barbeques.

Rosemary-Lavender Shortbread

One day, on an impulse, I bought a small bag of culinary lavender.  Then I wondered what to do with it.  I had always associated lavender with soap and potpourri, and imagined lavender ice cream or lavender baked goods would taste soapy.  I'm glad to report this shortbread is not at all soapy.  I'd call it herbal and lightly floral, and I wasn't prepared for the glowing reaction it got.  See, I liked the cookies well enough, but I was dreaming of chocolate ice cream, or summery peach cobbler.  And I didn't want a load of buttery shortbread around the house, so I brought the cookies to work.  Their unusual flavor combination, cute teapot shapes, and pretty sprigs got plenty of attention, and lots of compliments.

Squares of shortbread dough flecked with rosemary and lavender. Press some rosemary sprigs into some
of the shortbread for a decorative touch. Then everything gets a dusting of sugar.

The shortbread is sandy and buttery, and accented with honey along with the lavender and rosemary.  Make sure you use dried culinary lavender; the leaves in the sachet that scents your drawer might have chemicals on them.  I adapted this recipe from Epicurious to include the lavender.  I also altered the method to make lots of cutout cookies that would hold their shape when handled, as opposed to two simple rounds scored into triangles.

These are perfect for a fancy tea, but since the temperature hit 90 yesterday I made a strawberry oolong iced tea steeped with lavender.  For a bit of color, splash in about a teaspoon of cranberry juice.  Pour over ice, cool down, and have a cookie.

Celebrating Pride & Prejudice's 200th with Tea

My Jane Austen book club toasted the 200th anniversary of Pride & Prejudice with afternoon tea at Upstairs on the Square in Cambridge.  This restaurant in Harvard Square serves afternoon tea on the weekends that's a bit modern and whimsical.  More photos and comments follow the jump.

Boston Globe Review: Coastal Cottage Tea

Photos by Shirley Goh/Globe Staff

I love afternoon tea, with its scones and Devonshire cream and finger sandwiches.  But sometimes the city hotels are pricey or come with parking hassles.  At Windsor Tea Shop & Tea Room in Cohasset, you trade in fancy for a country cottage vibe, and big-city prices for lower ones with free parking.  And then there's the food.  Read all about it!

Read the review at: http://b.globe.com/10zQ1BI

If the subscriber pay wall locks you out, it's available at: http://bo.st/XDCfiI

Cream Scones with Chocolate Chunks

I fight it every year, but it's hard to be in denial after Labor Day that fall is near.  But as much as I want to hold on to beach days and barbecues, watermelon and peaches, shorts and sandals, I get excited about fall holidays and baking.  These scones are definitely colder-weather food, meant to be enjoyed with a hot cup of tea.

You don't even need a mixer, food processor, or handheld pastry blender to make these because there is no butter.  Simply stir together all the dry ingredients and chocolate, add the cream, and stir until the dough comes together.  The recipe calls for 3 to 4 ounces of chocolate -- go for the higher amount.  A bite of scone that has a hunk of chocolate is wonderfully creamy and bittersweet, but a bite without chocolate is kind of bland.  I chopped up a block of Callebaut dark.

My verdict?  I'm a creature of habit, and I like my currant scones with Devonshire cream.  But these are not at all bad, and you might enjoy them.

Afternoon Tea at the Boston Public Library

I had afternoon tea with my Austen in Boston book club at the Boston Public Library at Copley Square.  This review also appears at Boston Tea Party.

The main branch of the Boston Public Library at Copley Square sure sounds like the perfect place for afternoon tea: historical architecture, a courtyard complete with fountain, murals by John Singer Sargent, scores of books for Austen lovers like us.  In general, it did not disappoint.

The atmosphere was more casual and relaxing than the local hotels that serve tea.  You don't have to dress up much, or sit up very straight.  There is no maître d' or harpist.  The room is beautifully and classically decorated.  But on a Friday afternoon few of the tables were occupied so most of them were not set, leaving the room feeling slightly empty.

The polka dot china was cute, but the plain white teapots, sugar holder, and creamer were a disappointment.  The food was good, and the caterer is new-ish.  At $22.50 plus tax and tip (the 18% gratuity is included in the check), it's more affordable than tea at most hotels, though it seemed like less food.  But after more cups of tea, I felt positively full.

The watercress sandwich with lemon aioli was surprisingly and pleasantly fragrant.  The caper on the smoked salmon was a nice touch, the apricot chicken salad sandwich was all right, and the cucumber and herb cream cheese was traditional but always a favorite.  The crumbled bacon and tomato sandwich was an unusual addition to tea, but so good.

The blackberry and peach tart had the perfect balance of sweet and tart in a crisp pastry shell.  The raspberry and lemon cream tart was simple but delicious.  I'd been wondering, "What the heck is a chocolate sinclair?"  It turned out to be an ultra-rich and dense chocolate cake, and the small size was just right for the intensity of the chocolate.

The currant scones were served with Devonshire clotted cream and four fruit marmalade.  The only problem with them?  I wanted more.

I had the Ceylon tea and was happy with it.  Kirk's peach and ginger tea smelled good.  Erica and Karen seemed to like their teas, but I forgot to ask for their verdicts.

In my personal ranking of Boston-area tea venues, this one is around the top.  The food at the library wins over Hallowed Herbs in Quincy and the Four Seasons, is about the same as the Langham, and almost as good as the Taj.  The ambiance is better than the Four Seasons, Hallowed Herbs, and Langham, but not the Taj (if going by the room alone).  But for a more relaxed and unfussy feel (and Kirk was a fan of this), the library wins over the Taj.  The service was good.  The company is always excellent.  ;)  My verdict: Visit it!

I'm tacking on the additional thoughts of Kirk:
Wonderful review, Shirley! I agree! My tea (it was a black tea)  was more peach than ginger in taste, which was fine by me (lol, I'm more peach than ginger, err  more of a fan of Marianne (ok Maryanne is the common spelling, but as this is a Jane Austen bookclub..,) than Ginger). Yes, what a wonderful nose the tea had! Maybe that was the ginger. I thought I had the best seat in the room. To my right eye, the corridor and courtyard.To my left, the delightful company. :) Speaking of the corridor, it was amusing when two women stopped in the corridor to check out what we were eating and waved at us! That certainly added to the relaxed feeling I had (try that at the Taj). I don't normally like to be observed eating, but it was perfectly fine there. I was impressed that the manager was willing to do a Tea only option for one member of our party who wasn't sure about eating. I certainly enjoyed the food...did have a slight "reaction" to the cucumber (lol, Rebecca's was much better last
Sunday!). I agree about the bacon and tomato. Loved the salmon and caper as well. I would be delighted to go back in a couple months!

Teatime Treats! The Best Scones, Plus Cuke Sandwiches

They're the quintessential afternoon tea nibbles -- scones and cucumber sandwiches. Beverly (i.e. the Queen of Scones) calls this recipe The Best Scones, and they really are. They're the flakiest, tenderest, moistest scones you'll ever have. And why not round them out with some tiny sandwiches, and a cuppa English Breakfast, Assam, or Ceylon?

I halved this scone recipe for our household of two, but you can probably freeze some right before they go into the oven and bake them up on demand. I also halved the amount of salt, but whether you do the same is up to you. Check out the flaky layers of this baby.

The Best Scones by Beverly

4 cups all-purpose

2 tbs baking powder

2 tsp salt

¾ lb. cold unsalted butter, diced (that's 3 sticks)

4 large eggs, beaten lightly

1 cup cold heavy cream

1 egg beaten with 1 tbs water or milk, for egg wash, Or use cream

Raisins or currants (I used ½ cup)

Preheat the oven to 400°.

Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. You can also make this in a food processor with the metal blade like I did, or by hand with a pastry blender. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the butter is in pea-sized pieces. Mix the eggs and cream together, and quickly add them to the flour-and-butter mixture. Combine until just blended. Mix in the raisins or currants.

Dump the dough onto a floured surface and knead just until it comes together. Roll the dough ¾ inch thick. Cut into 4-inch squares and then in half diagonally to make triangles, or any shape you desire. Brush the tops with cream. Bake on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone mat for 18 minutes, until the outside is crusty and the inside is fully baked.

Makes 16 scones.

This is my thrown-together cucumber sandwich recipe.

Cucumber Sandwiches

1 cucumber, peeled

6 slices bread

2 oz. cream cheese, softened at room temperature

½ tsp salt

1 tsp chopped fresh parsley

2 tsp chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish

You'll need a vegetable peeler, paper towels, and a tall biscuit cutter.

Cut the crusts off the bread. You can freeze them in a zip-top bag to make breadcrumbs out of. Holding the cucumber so it stands vertically on a cutting board, use the peeler to shave off thick slices of cucumber, until you get to the seedy part. Discard the seedy core. Lay the cucumber on paper towels to soak up excess moisture, so your sandwiches don't get soggy.

Stir the salt, parsley, and chives into the softened cream cheese. Spread the mixture onto the bread slices, then top with the layers of cucumber. You can leave them open-faced or top them with another slice of bread. Cut them into triangles, or use a biscuit cutter to cut out little teatime-sized rounds. The cutter has to be tall enough that it won't get lost in the sandwich, and sharp enough to cut through.

Scatter some chives over the tops for garnish. Keep the sandwiches covered so they don't dry out.

Worth Their Weight in Gold: Financiers

I'd been wanting to add financiers to my repertoire for a while, and Aisha from A Piece of Cake told me about this recipe for Raspberry Financiers.

I only had one tray of the mini-muffin molds the recipe calls for, and didn't want that single tiny tray baking by itself for 30 minutes, so I also used 10 tartlet molds measuring 1¾ inches across and ½ inch deep, and they worked well (same amount of time in the oven). If you have rectangular molds, you can bake them in their traditional shape resembling gold ingots. They are tasty, and perfect for teatime!

Little Next Door's Raspberry Financiers

Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes plus chilling time for the dough
Servings: Makes 2½ dozen

• 4 egg whites
  
• 1¼ cups powdered sugar
  
• 11 tablespoons butter
  
• ½ cup flour
  
• ½ cup almond flour (I just ground up blanched almonds very fine in a food processor)
  
• ½ pint fresh raspberries

1. Combine the egg whites and sugar in a medium bowl. Place the bowl over a similar-sized saucepan to form a bain-marie or double-boiler filled with gently simmering water. Stir the egg whites and sugar with a whisk just until the whites warm slightly and the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and set aside.
   
2. In a small saucepan, cook the butter over medium heat until it begins to brown and gives off a nutty aroma. Remove from the heat to prevent the butter from overcooking. Set aside, but keep very warm.
   
3. In a large bowl using a hand mixer, or in the bowl of a stand mixer, begin whisking the egg white mixture at low speed. With the mixer running, gently add the flour, followed by the almond flour, and mix just to combine. Add in the warm butter in a thin stream, mixing at low speed until it is incorporated. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl, and continue to mix 10 seconds more to ensure the batter is completely combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, preferably overnight.
   
4. Heat the oven to 325º. Spray or butter a tray of miniature muffin molds (our molds measured 1¾ inches wide by ½ inch deep). Fill the molds two-thirds full with batter, and place a fresh raspberry on top of each. Place the tray in the oven and bake 30 to 40 minutes, until golden. Remove and cool on a wire rack. Repeat with the remaining batter.
   

Tea in Boston & NYC

I had afternoon tea with a few friends today, but I stopped at Whittard of Chelsea at Faneuil Hall first, and look what I got! They were 50% off, and so pretty! My heart also stopped at a set that featured cats, but the fine bone china looked too delicate for me to be comfortable using.

So we went to the Boston Langham hotel, and I snapped a pic of my plate with my cellphone like a tourist. My friends thought it would be funny to include an "after" shot, after I demolished my little finger sandwiches and pastries. Doesn't it look like a work of art (that is, the "before" shot)? I had smoked salmon (from top left down), ham mousse (better than it sounds), and cucumber sandwiches; scones, banana bread, and some walnut-y tea bread; and Boston cream pie (which, if you don't know, is actually a cake), a chocolate-covered strawberry, a macaroon, and a tasty madeleine. I washed it all down with cups of Assam. My favorite place is still the Taj, but they have the nerve not to serve on weekdays anymore! Still, this was, as my friend Bill put it, "pretty damn good."

Update:

I went to New York later that week to throw a bridal shower and visit my folks, and I had tea with my mom (she wanted to try it, too) at Lady Mendl's in Manhattan. Sorry, but no pictures! It looked like too much of a classy place (the type where waiters invade your personal space by putting your napkin on your lap for you... hate that) to be clicking pictures with my cell, so I chickened out. But I can describe!

It's located in an inn where an actress used to live, and the interior decor is beautiful 1920s New York style, with lots of beautiful wood paneling and candles. Tea there isn't served on a three-tier stand or square plate, but in five courses (and you can ask for seconds!). First course is a salad, followed by a second course of finger sandwiches. Those included cucumber; turkey with cranberry; smoked salmon; and sundried tomato and goat cheese. Third course consisted of scrumptious scones with Devonshire cream. For fourth course, you get a choice of a slice of chocolate mousse cake or a layered crepes with vanilla cream cake, both served with fresh berries. My mom picked the chocolate mousse cake and devoured it, and I thought the layered crepes cake was a bit squidgy and only OK. We couldn't really eat anymore, but there was a fifth course of chocolate-covered strawberries with petit fours and some poppyseed cookie I wasn't crazy about. Much was left on our plates. My darjeeling was tasty, and my mom chose a great oolong with mild floral notes. The whole experience was pretty good, and cost $35 per person. Worth checking out!